 Posted 5/26/2007 4:43:04 PM
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eninja2k (5/26/2007)
hahn23 (5/26/2007)
eninja2k,
Your images are not showing up in your post above. Might be because they are in tiff format. Might want to try jpg.
Okay. They were showing up to me but I uploaded and changed the new ones to jpg. Try it now.
Thanks
Very good! Now I can see them and everyone else, too! Thanks! Good contribution of understanding! That is helpful!
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Posted 5/30/2007 2:42:38 PM
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| See I told ya I wasnt done picking these apart.. Now ; when trying to throw many concepts together and be aware of all the tech. issues involved, this is what I have come across... While taking pics and looking at the histos,,sometimes I notice that the histo is more evenly dispersed if I go against my light meter.. In this case since I really cant judge by the lcd display of each image...would you experienced photogs consider the meter more important or the histogram?.. I mean assuming that by not following the meter the pic is not under or over exposed which is relatively easy to discern on the lcd.. Okay am I over-analyzing? but it was just an observation...I havent dissected these factors on pc , not much time lately to do alot of image processing and I don't think I could remember which pics I went against the meter unless I buckled down and did a controlled experiment..not gonna happen lol  .. Thoughts?
I may not always be wRIGHTbut I am never wrong Profile -  Top 24 - 
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Posted 5/30/2007 4:27:32 PM
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Which metering mode are you using? And, why?
The meter tells you a lot about the scene... before the shot. But, you need to be aware of what you are metering. I offer some tips on metering in this article.
The histogram tells you how well you metered the scene and adjusted the exposure based on the meter information.
I wouldn't want to give up either. Both are essential component of the image exposure process.
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Posted 5/30/2007 4:52:32 PM
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Tonka,
I also had trouble understanding exposure. Although most of the time I got lucky with the light meter, I found out it was just that. Luck! I actually purchased two books on exposure. You don't have to purchase the books as I did. You can read the info on the web site. I purchased the books thinking they would be MORE helpful but as it turns out, the info on the web site is just a simplified version of the same thing.
http://simplifiedzonesystem.com/
Of course, you would never want to take a picture without using the light meter in Manual mode. In Auto, you can but you are at the mercy of the settings chosen for you. You can't really choose your depth of field, etc. There is a setting "Aperture Priority", which will allow you to get the depth you want and the the camera will select the "appropriate" shutter speed. As I found out by reading this information, the light meter will lie to you. It depends on what metering mode you are using (as richard pointed out) and how much of what your camera is seeing falls within the metered portion of the scene. Plus, a light meter compensates for things like over exposure. Pointing your light meter at a bright white area for example will tell you camera "WHOA! Lots of bright light! Stop down as not to overexpose the shot!"...Well, after you tell people your camera is talking and you get released from the asylum, you will realize that if you shoot that frame your white area will come out Middle Gray (18% gray, Tonally), your dark areas will be too dark and likely will your mid tones.
In this case you would want to open up two stops, overriding your cameras meter so that white would turn out white and midtones would be near the 18% gray range.
There is some simple math involved (9th grade level).
You would use the Histogram afterwards to determine if your judgement was acurate of if maybe you need to stop up or down another 1/3 stop or so.
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Posted 5/30/2007 5:04:52 PM
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Yes, I try to remember exposure in terms of polar bears and black bears. In both cases, the camera metering system will try to turn their fur into 18% grey.
So, in a counterintuitive way, the camera will underexpose the polar bear. Increase the exposure by 1.5 stops!
Conversely, but also in a counterintuitive way, the camera will overexpose the black bear. Decrease the exposure by 1.5 stops!
Now, we don't see bears very often, but the principle applies to anything dark or bright in your scene. You have to keep in the front of your mind the concept of how the camera is going to handle the metered portion of the scene.
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Posted 5/30/2007 7:51:09 PM
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Posted 5/31/2007 4:24:25 AM
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| Okay I will get to that info asap.. I am using evaluative metering for the time being..Umm I think because of something I read here in the forum a loooooong time ago?...cant remember why though..many other things I was concentrating on til now... So this is cool...the histograms topic has brought me to metering...I can fly with that.!! and Yes I use the AP...so .. Thank you both!! I was like "Oh no!! I can't go against the meter but was thinking..why wouldnt the meter and the histogram go together harmoniously?.. okay..gotta get some kids up....
I may not always be wRIGHTbut I am never wrong Profile - Top 24 -
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Posted 5/31/2007 9:44:31 AM
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Tonka (5/31/2007)
Okay I will get to that info asap.. I am using evaluative metering for the time being..Umm I think because of something I read here in the forum a loooooong time ago?...cant remember why though..many other things I was concentrating on til now... So this is cool...the histograms topic has brought me to metering...I can fly with that.!! and Yes I use the AP...so .. Thank you both!! I was like "Oh no!! I can't go against the meter but was thinking..why wouldnt the meter and the histogram go together harmoniously?.. okay..gotta get some kids up.... Think of what the camera meters as only a suggestion. If you set your camera to Evaluative metering and to P mode, you will get the most basic form of the camera's suggestion. From there you can adjust the various settings to tailor the image to look the way you want it to - generally lighter or darker by varying the exposure compensation; more or less DoF by adjusting the aperture; shutter speed fast enough to control blur; and higher ISO if necessary to get into the range where your other settings will work in harmony. Think of the histogram as the camera's way of telling you how the image will look after you've made your adjustments. Because there are so many variables involved, there is no real substitute for experience in relating what kind of adjustments will yield the results you desire, or how the histogram will reflect those results. Trying to master too many of the variables at the same time willl only lead to confusion.
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Posted 5/31/2007 10:29:39 AM
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