 Posted 2/9/2008 10:35:03 AM
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted 2/9/2008 12:08:15 PM
|
|
|
|
The links below are a good place to get ideas. Most involve using an off camera flash but if you look at the strobist you will find out that that it does not have to be an expensive one to create stunning results.
This link will take you to what I believe to be the best tutorial about camera flash usage and wedding photography. It's a bit long but the writer has it broken down into sections dealing with different aspects of the subject. Normally I wouldn't like this delivery method but he does a good job of tying each of the subjects together to form a complete tutorial
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques
You are going to want to add this one to your reading list as well. It has clear examples and covers a variety of shooting situations and it really gives you a feel for what can be done
http://www.dg28.com/technique/index.htm
Last but not least this blog focuses on using cheap flashes from days gone by. It really about getting by on a budget but I gotta tell ya the images are stunning in most cases.
http://strobist.blogspot.com
I was going to post these anyway so here is as good of place as any.
|
|
|
Posted 2/9/2008 12:09:14 PM
|
|
|
|
| I hope you get some good replies, Cher! I'm definately not a portrait photog.... but there are many here who are! (LT, Rita, MrsStapp, Juliana, Adam, Paula... to name a few) Can't wait to see some of your work!!!
|
|
|
Posted 2/9/2008 12:09:42 PM
|
|
|
|
 And Chris!
|
|
|
Posted 2/9/2008 12:23:40 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Posted 2/10/2008 7:47:36 AM
|
|
|
|
Tonka (2/9/2008)
Does it have to function like a flash?
Can you just have a steady light form...I mean if I have a spotlight,,cuz I aint buyin nuttin
My biggest challenge actually is a background
The answer is... Light is light.... If it records on the sensor you can use it.
While light has different qualities, almost anything will work if you are resourceful and there is enough of it to register on the camera.
Here is a thread on a modeling site that talks about who used the least light.
http://www.modelmayhem.com/p.php?thread_id=247837
It is basically the same discussion we have all the time regarding the quality of camera you use versus the quality of the image it produces. It is really not about the camera it is all about the photographer.
About Light -
There are some key points that you should understand before you start in order to avoid some frustration.
1. Light follows the inverse square law. ( An object twice the distance from the source will receive 1/4 the light. example: If you have a light source with an object 1 foot away and another 2 foot away, the object 2 foot away will get 1/4th the light that the object 1 foot away gets.)
2. I define light, in my mind, as having different qualities Based on 4 criteria:
A. Size
B. Intensity.
C. Distance.
D. Color
All of these define how hard or soft the light will be or how cool or warm they will be. (Hard or soft defines the transition between Light and shadow (contrast). the light is hard the transition between the light and shadow is sharp, if soft it has a smooth transition between shadows and light.) (Warm, runs toward yellow and Cool runs toward blue) All have their uses depending on the mood you are trying to portray.
3. The practical difference between expensive studio lights and a 100 watt light bulb is the ability to expand your range of shots and the model's comfort. I'd argue that people just starting out should start with one Vivitar 285, a radio slave, a bunch of batteries, some reflectors, a white shower curtain, a light stand, and a bunch of time. Given those tools you can produce a wide range of shots.
Too many people go out and buy 4 Alien Bee 800's, a host of light modifiers, and backgrounds then use them all at the same time and get frustrated because they have a hard time nailing down how each change has changed the image.
Light Modifiers -
Light modifiers are tools used to shape or redirect the light from the source among these tools are:
Snoots - A black tube that keeps the light from spreading out. Usually used as a hairlight but can be used anytime you want the light to fall off more quickly, sort of like a spotlight. The length of the tube defines how quickly the light falls off and the radius defines the width of the light..
Grids - Basically it does the same but yields a larger light source with similar fall off characteristics. Well sort of, it's hard to explain. They come in in different angles and are usually made of a bunch of honeycomb shapes.
Umbrellas - They spread the light and have the effect of diffusing the light and making it larger. (The more diffused the light source is the less harsh. Remember? It actually does two things, it makes the light source larger and changes the angle that it hits the subject.
Softboxes and Diffusion Screens - Softens the light by making the light source larger . More often than not you would use these just out of frame.
Reflectors - You guess what they do.. Reflect! Basically they make one light source two light sources. Usually used as fill light. The closer you move the reflector to the subject the brighter the fill light you get.
Scrims - Basically any opaque or translucent panel used to modify the light.
Cookies - Basically scrims that you cut to specific shapes and place between the light and the subject to shape the light that hits the subject. Want a bar of light to hit the subject rather than a circle? Take a piece of foam core and cut a slot in it then place it between the subject and the subject.
A Practical Starting Point:
Here's a lighting diagram for the most basic of shots, and by the way one of the better in my opinion though I'd add a hair light if I could add another light.
The McGuyver Factor -
OK I'm old, McGuyver was a TV show in the 80's where a smart guy made all kinds of things out of ordinary stuff to get himself out of trouble. This section is all about doing the same.
1.The Opaque Screen is just something to keep the light from hitting the background, it could be a blanket, a piece of plywood, or a doorway. The screen isn't necessary if you have enough distance between the spotlight and the background but if you are shooting in your home you might not have that much space.
2. The reflector is anything that is white or neutral color reflective. A piece of white foam core, a T-shirt, a sheet, a pair of big old lady underwear, a mirror, almost anything that will bounce the light back at the model. BTW, if you have one of those foil sunshade's for your car they make excellent reflectors. ( I bought a folding one for RVs that I keep in my van just for that purpose. It works well with sunlight as well)
3. For the light source I'd use a spot light to make it directional and keep the stray light in the room down but if you choose to use a bare bulb try to surround it with something that will absorb the light or redirect it toward the front.
4. Though not shown in the drawing you could use a thin white shower curtain as a diffuser between the spotlight and the subject. More appropriately it would be the equivalent of a diffusion panel but I'll not quibble.
There are ways to make most of the other modifiers but to get started it's best to keep it simple.
A Warning -
A spotlight falls into the category of lights called Hotlights. There's a reason they call them that! Get it too close to the shower curtain and it melts, too close to the subject and they get burned, too close to other flammables and they start fires. Whatever you do be aware of the heat and ensure you aren't going to burn down the house. (If you do at least grab your camera!) The responsibility is all yours not mine.
It would be interesting to have a challenge based on making a portrait with the directions above and limiting it to the tools discussed though for safety's sake it would be best if everyone used a bright fluorescent light. I'd hate to have the burning down of 20 houses around the world in my conscience.
Questions?
This image was made with just light through the sunlight in the kitchen and no modifiers or backgrounds.
|
|
|
Posted 2/10/2008 8:35:31 AM
|
|
|
|
*raising hand*
Ummm you must be the same age as me lol...I know who Maguyver is ..wasn't my show but certainly the males in the family watched it...
Okay, I cannot buy anything, I have NO room at all ....but I have the spotlights which will work wonderfully if I can get a bkrnd in the garage, actually this will be perfect because no one will be cold this time of year as the lights should heat them up very well..
only,,they are extremely bright but if I move them back it should work..again though, no bkrnd...dont even have 10 for a showercurtain and I have shower doors so I do not have any curtains layin around  ...
Okay but your diagram is good...your explanations are great, I understand them..
thing is.... I rarely get quiet time ..wahhh it is very frustrating because I want to learn more, I need to learn more...
At least with the reading material, I have the picture in my head so that the next opportunity I will know exactly what supplies I will need..
Okay I have a velvet brown tablecloth,,,I have attempted to use it on stills before but I find it is hard to have a good subject color which suits the brown...I bought it specifically for a bkrnd,,it was a clearance xmas tablecloth, pretty big and only 4 bucks..lol...
any suggestions or tables/guides/links for appropriate color combos between subject and bkrnds?
The brown is a suede/leather brown..I think i is a beautiful rich brown but it is very rich...
I could even practice with still subjects too..
another challenge is how to hang that in the garage..ugh... all the dust and dirt with the wood for the wood stove....
okay maybe I will just practice in my head..sheesh... what does anybody use for the flooring? or do you all have pristine garages and studio space?
hmmm maybe I could turn a piece of bathroom panelling over and use that....for the floor
I may not always be wRIGHTbut I am never wrong Profile -  Top 24 - 
|
|
|
Posted 2/10/2008 10:07:00 AM
|
|
|
| | |
